Laos: Food and Drink

Lao cuisine, although distinctively and unmistakably 'Lao', is by no means confined to Laos. Just across the Mekong River in Thailand there are perhaps five times as many ethnic Lao as there are in Laos itself. Moreover, the flood of Lao-speaking inhabitants of Thailand's broad Northeast (known as isaan) to Bangkok means that there are now far more ethnic Lao in the Thai capital than in any other city, Vientiane included. As a consequence Lao cuisine has gained in fame and popularity, being enjoyed throughout Thailand, and even having a popular chain of fast food restaurants--called 'Isaan Classic'--developed to serve it.

Lao cuisine, like that of neighbouring Southeast Asian countries, revolves around rice. This isn't the long grain rice that Vietnamese, Central Thai and most Westerners are used to eating, however, but khao niaw, or glutinous 'sticky rice' deftly rolled into a neat, small ball and eaten with the hand. In Vientiane, the Lao capital, as indeed in all other large towns, long grain rice or khao jao is readily available--but khao niaw remains the basic staple of the Lao people, and is the single most distinctive feature of Lao cuisine. Another essential is fish sauce or naam paa, which is the universal Lao condiment.

Sticky rice, then, forms the central theme of virtually every Lao meal. It is generally accompanied by a selection of dips, parboiled vegetables, salad, soup and various curried meat dishes or fish dishes. The sticky rice is generally served in a simple but attractive woven bamboo container called a tip khao. It's considered bad luck not to replace the lid on top of the tip khao at the end of the meal. Whilst sticky rice is eaten by hand, long grain rice is always eaten with a spoon and fork. Chopsticks are reserved for Chinese-style noodle dishes or for use in Chinese and Vietnamese restaurants.

David Henley / CPA

Fresh spices and vegetables on display at a Vientiane market..

Lao food is quite similar to Thai food--and indeed identical to much of the food eaten in Thailand's ethnically Lao Northeast. Dishes are generally cooked with fresh ingredients that include vegetables, poultry (chicken, duck), pork, beef and water buffalo. Fish and prawns are readily available but are nearly always freshwater, since Laos is a landlocked country relatively far from the sea. Mutton and goat are not eaten except by the country's small South Asian Muslim population, nearly all of whom live in Vientiane. Up country, particularly in the north, jungle foods and game are popular--besides wild boar and deer this includes such unlikely animals as pangolin, monitor lizard, civet, wild dogs and field rats.

Popular Lao dishes include tam som--really the equivalent of Thai som tam--a spicy salad made of sliced green papaya mixed with chilli peppers, garlic, tomatoes, ground peanuts, field crab, lime juice and fish sauce. This is often eaten with sticky rice and ping kai or grilled chicken. Another standby is laap, a spicy dish of minced meat, poultry or fish mixed with lime juice, garlic, chilli pepper, onion and mint. Meats used in laap are generally cooked--unlike laap dip in northern Thailand--but can also be raw. If you are concerned about this, ask for laap suk, or cooked laap.

David Henley / CPA

A tasty Lao feast.

Other popular Lao dishes include tom khaa kai, or chicken soup with galingale and coconut milk, kaeng jeut, or mild soup with minced pork and bitter gourd, and khao laat kaeng, or curry served on a bed of khao jao long grain rice--all virtually identical with Thai dishes of the same name served on the other side of the Mekong.

For breakfast or a snack at any time of the day, Vietnamese pho or noodle soup is extremely popular, as are yaw jeun or deep-fried spring rolls. For a variant, try yaw dip or fresh spring rolls. Vietnamese food is good and plentiful, especially in Vientiane and the larger cities. The same is true of Chinese food, which is generally Cantonese or Hokkienese, though some Yunnanese food is for sale in Vientiane. Other popular cuisines available include Thai--just about everywhere--Italian and French (especially in Vientiane and Luang Prabang) and South Asian (only in Vientiane). Laos is an excellent place for breakfast, chiefly because of the French colonial legacy. French bread or khao jii is freshly baked each day and served with pate, fried eggs and omelette. Good coffee is also available, and it's possible to start the day with coffee and croissants in the major urban centres, though up country the croissants may have to be replaced with pah thawng ko or deep-fried Chinese dough sticks.

David Henley / CPA

Le Bayou, French restaurant, Vientiane.

David Henley / CPA

A taste of France on the banks of the Mekong.

Fruit

There's plenty of fruit in Laos, though--as with food in general--the range and quality is much better in the Mekong Valley than up country and in the hills. In the appropriate seasons, and especially towards the end of the hot season in May, markets overflow with a wide variety of exotic fruits including mango, papaya, coconut, rambutan, durian, custard apple, guava, mangosteen, starfruit, pineapple, watermelon, jackfruit and bananas.

Drinks

It's always advisable to drink bottled water in Laos. The traveller should also beware of ice of dubious origin, particularly up country or at street stalls. Soft drinks like cola and lemonade manufactured by internationally known companies are available everywhere, as is canned and bottled beer. International beers to look for are Carlsberg, Heineken, Tiger and Singha; various Chinese beers are available in the north of the country, but the real treat to look out for is the excellent and cheap local product, Beer Lao, which comes bottled and draught. Imported wine--a reminder of Laos' colonial past--is available in major towns, as (sometimes) is Stolychnaya vodka. Caution should be exercised with fresh fruit juices and sugar cane juice, but cartons and cans of fruit juice, milk and drinking yoghurt are available on supermarket shelves in Vientiane and (increasingly) Luang Prabang. Coffee--often very good--and tea are generally available throughout the country. Chinese tea is often served free as an accompaniment to meals or with the thick, strong Lao coffee.

Restaurants

This selection from Laos' principal centres is listed according to the following categories: $$$ = expensive; $$ = moderate; $ = cheap. (Please note that in all address listings, Road, Street or Boulevard is replaced with the Lao word thanon. Almost all road signs written in English will use Thanon.)

Vientiane

$ John Restaurant, Thanon Fa Ngum, near the Chinese shrine. A basic Lao food place on the riverfront serving fried rice and various laap (minced meat salad) dishes.

$$ Khyber Pass, 71 Thanon Samsenthai, tel: 511 112. Halal restaurant serving Indian, Arabic and Mongolian food.

$$ La Terrasse, 55/4 Thanon Nokeo Khumman, near Wat Mixai, tel: 218 550. A brasserie and snack bar. Serves both Lao and French food along with pizzas and some Mexican dishes.

$$ Le Bayou, Thanon Setthathirat, opposite Wat Ong Teu Mahawihan. Excellent value breakfasts, salads and fondues. Try the Rocquefort cheese salad.

$$$ Lo Stivale, 43/2 Thanon Setthathirat, near Fountain Circle, tel: 215 651. An excellent Italian restaurant, with everything from pizzas to gnocchi, also a good wine list.

$$$ Nam Phou, Fountain Circle, off Thanon Pangkham, tel: 216 248. Mainly French food, but also some German dishes. Perhaps the most exclusive restaurant in town, it's been around a long time.

$Restaurant Santisouk, Thanon Nokeo Khumman, tel: 215 303. Very much a 'French Grill' style of cooking and perhaps the best value French restaurant in town.

$$ The Saya, Saysana Hotel, Thanon Chao Anou, tel: 514 742. Lao and Thai specialities.

$ The Scandinavian Bakery, Fountain Circle, tel: 215 199. A great place to pick up fresh bread, croissants, sandwiches and pies. Also good for breakfasts.

$$ Tamnak Lao or Lao Residence, Ban Phonexay, Thanon That Luang, tel: 413 562, fax: 213 635. Serves Lao specialities with Western palates in mind, hence the dishes are not overly spicy.

$$ The Taj, 75/4 Thanon Pangkham, tel: 212 890. Very good north Indian food and lunchtime buffet, also serves excellent vegetarian meals.

Luang Prabang

$$ Ban Lao, Ban Mano, tel: 212 438. Lao and Chinese food.

$$ Le Calao, Thanon Rim Khong, tel: 212 100. An extensive western menu with Lao specialities.

$$ Le Saladier, Thanon Sisavang Vong,

$ Luang Prabang Bakery, Thanon Sisavang Vong, tel: 212 617. Café style establishment serving salads, quiches, sandwiches and various different pastries.

$$ Malee Lao Food, Thanon Phu Wao. Excellent local Lao food with daily specialities.

$$ Pak Huoy Mixay, 47/5 Ban Vatnong, Thanon Savang Vatthana, tel: 212 260. Serves excellent fresh fish from the Mekong. Probably the best place in town for Lao specialities, they also have a barbecue out on the terrace.

$$ Villa Santi, Thanon Sakkarine, tel and fax: 212 267. This place has connections with the last king's personal chef, so the food ought to be good. They serve both traditional Lao and French cuisine.

$ Visoun Restaurant, Thanon Wisunalat, tel: 212 268. Some Lao favourites, but mostly Chinese food. Open early morning to late at night.

Tha Khaek

$ Phavilai Restaurant, Thanon Kuvoravong, near the ferry landing point. A good place for basic Lao cuisine and Chinese noodle dishes.

Along the riverside on Thanon Setthathirat there are large shade trees covering a few tables. This is a good place to sit and have a cold drink or order noodles from the small noodle shops across the road. Further north along Thanon Setthathirat is a floating restaurant, serving fresh fish dishes. Shoes are removed and one sits cross-legged at low tables in separate dining enclosures.

Savannakhet

$$ Haan Ahaan Lao-Paris, Thanon Tha He, tel: 212 792. A wide variety of Lao, Vietnamese and French food. They even serve French wine.

$ Savanhlaty Food Garden, Thanon Si Muang, near the Sala Savanh Guesthouse. Only open in the evening this small night market serves a variety of Lao, Thai and Chinese dishes as well as the ubiquitous Beer Lao.

Pakse

$$ Champasak Palace Hotel, 718 Thanon Ban Pra Bath, tel: 212 263. A variety of Lao, Chinese and Thai dishes at very reasonable prices considering it really is a palace.

$$ Ketmany Restaurant, north side of Route 13. Very good Chinese and European food, with a family atmosphere.

Bolaven Plateau

$$ Heaun Mittaphap Lao-Thai, Tadlo Resort, next to Taat Lo Waterfalls. A restaurant at the base of the falls serving excellent French and Lao food. A lovely atmosphere.

An extended version of this article appears in Insight Compact Guide Laos.

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