Japan's Top Twenty Adventures

Roughly the size of California, Japan is home to 127 million people living on a chain of large and small islands running between the Pacific Ocean and the Sea of Japan. Stretching across 20° of latitude from north to south, Japan's climate ranges from sub-tropical to sub-arctic. This means, theoretically, at certain parts of the year you could sunbathe and skinny-dip in the south while friends in the north build snowmen and carve ice-sculptures. Islands in the south crawl with jungle while Hokkaido's summer-green pastures and forests look oddly European. If you can, think a mix of Tennessee, Colorado and Ohio and you'll have the highly-populated main island of Honshu minus the rice fields. Perched along the "Ring of Fire," Japan's geography is highly active. Eighty percent of the nation is mountainous. Forty active volcanoes still spew and an average 1000 earthquakes a year keep everyone on alert.

Japan is a country of civilization and chaos. It is a country with a romance and fascination for nature but a persistent inability to manage its resources. It is an ancient land of quiet beauty and tremendous modern noise. It is a land of stable upheaval, and to the uninitiated, Japan's traditions, sights and sounds will always surprise. It has a history thousands of years old and a deeply personalized culture borrowed greatly from China and Korea. With economic success after WWII, Japan is a now exporting culture; shipping its addiction for gadgetry, youth and cutesy cartoons to Asia and the world.

The countryside of Japan, seems covered in cement but get off a main road and it is still a charming place to visit and explore. Venture into the country and you'll find yourself in another world. This is where samurai and salarymen are still coming to terms with modernity on a day-to-day basis. Most urbanites have family ties in the country and can be envious of agricultural lifestyles, yet they consider their seriously urbanized, space-deficient life a necessity of the modern age. As many gaze at the Rocky Mountains or the space of the Serengetti on the Discovery Channel--wishing desperately to visit the "Big Nature"--they almost forget the stunning natural wonders of the Japanese Alps or the southern tropical islands right in their own backyard. But Japan's natural wonders leave many wondering about the country's remaining resources. There are only 80-some national parks throughout the country, many unfortunately managed like giant tree-farms. Forty percent of Japan's forests are row-planted for harvest. Local volunteer and environmental groups remain small voices in the din of big government spending projects and bigger business.

Brent Madison / CPA

Sakura, emblem of the "other" Japan, Honshu.

For the past 30 years, Japan has been kept something of a secret because of its high prices. You could go broke in a week living it up in Tokyo, but if you utilize hostels, ride the rails using special train fares and eat on the streets, staying in Japan can cost little more than a vacation in the US. And while most of the foreign travelers or tourists are actually working there and using their free time to explore, nature-tourism in general is on the rise. From mountain trekking to scuba diving, there is something for every nature-lover or serious adventure-sports enthusiast. Japan has added its own special signature to its outdoor pursuits--that of the hot spring bath or onsen. Found absolutely everywhere on the islands in many different forms, this is the ultimate cultural experience, unwinding as the Japanese do at the end of a hard day's play in steaming hot spring water with your neighbours--and no clothes. So if you think you can handle raw fish and the bare-bottom bathing, grab your boots and head for the airport!

CLASSIC ADVENTURES

1. Catching Waves on the Shizuoka Coast

If you have a yen to surf with the locals, head to the east coast of Japan's main island, Honshu. Situated between picturesque Mt. Fuji and Nagoya City, Cape Omaezaki is Japan's summer surfing paradise, and someone in the know must agree--it's the official site of the World Body Board Championships. Wedged between Suruga Bay and the Omaezaki-Enshunada Prefectural Park, the wave-shaped peninsula juts into the Pacific and funnels the wind, making it ideal for windsurfing. Winter winds can be an intense 50 knots. An added benefit of the wind--5 to 7ft swells. Not ready for a pounding? Long Beach offers classic sideshore conditions into 4-6ft waves. Many other nearby sites offer a wide range of options. However, due to its popularity and location near the major population centers of the nation, half the adventure is finding your own personal spot to surf. At least you'll have company. When not in the water, a lighthouse located at the southernmost point of the cape offers a panoramic view of Suruga Bay from its observation deck. A sunset from here is simply stunning.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Year-round. Big winds and big waves from October to April. April to July the wind isn't as strong, so it's a good time to visit if you're still learning. Bring a wetsuit.
Difficulty Rating: Moderate
Rentals: not generally available--bring your own small waveboard and check with local surf shops for sailboard rentals.
Getting There: 3 hour drive from Tokyo, or take a combination of Bullet and local trains.

2. Climbing Mount Fuji

You shouldn't even think about visiting Japan without first committing to climb Fuji-san. At just under 12,000 feet (3,776 metres to be exact), Mt. Fuji is both national symbol and the nation's highest mountain. Start your climb in Fujinomiya City at Sengen Gingu, the main Shinto shrine whose followers worship the sleeping volcano. You'll hike through city streets, scrub and forest before finally reaching the rocky tree line of 5th Station, the halfway point to the peak at 10th Station--only to be faced with hundreds of fresh climbers unloading from buses! During the official climbing season buses run day and night dropping thousands of climbers at the half-way point to endure what can only be described as a Japanese rite. Want to add to the challenge? Climb by flashlight and sleep with 40 other climbers in a station house. Your reward is seeing the dawn sun from the highest place in the nation, quite something in the land of the Rising Sun.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Official climbing season is July 1st through August 31st
Difficulty Rating: Strenuous. Bring water and layers.
Getting There: Bullet Train to Fuji City, local train to Fujinomiya--or take a night bus ride from Tokyo's Shinjuku Station to 5th Station.

3. Night Diving in Okinawa

You don't need a boat to experience some of the best diving around Okinawa and there are English-speaking dive shops that will rent gear and tell you where to go. Shore dives are plentiful and easy access to the water is particularly useful when night diving. To some, scuba diving at night sounds nearly as bad as having brain surgery. Why do it? It's a sensory experience that is hard to beat. The warm, black Pacific around you is full of life and literally pops with the sound of krill. Bright fish feed in the coral and glowing anemone beckon hypnotically. Once you've had your fill of exploration, there's nothing more exciting (or terrifying) than turning off the lights. The saltwater is filled with light-emitting plankton and in the dark it only takes a wave of the hand to start an amazing fluorescent show.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Year-round
Difficulty Rating: Moderate, and it helps to be crazy.

4. Taking a Powder in Hokkaido

Southeast of Sapporo by just 2 1/2 hours, the fabulous ski town of Niseko sits in the shadow of buffering Mt. Yotei keeping it protected from all but the driest snow. There is nothing better than leaving a monster trail through the trees following a fresh snowfall--and with 12 metres (26.5 feet!) of annual flakes, deep-powder skiing here is unsurpassed. The four resorts in Niseko allow their fifty-seven separate runs to be used on the same lift ticket. Add that up to discover over 30 miles of groomed slopes supported by 38 gondolas and lifts. It's an immense site which welcomes traditional skiers and boarders alike with the added attraction of night skiing on lit courses. Want to ride some handrails or take a hit off the half-pipe? It's there. Need some time alone in the backcountry to have some peace and quiet? If there's anything Hokkaido has, it's space with snow to spare.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Mid-November to late May.
Difficulty rating: Moderate

5. White-Water Rafting the Mountains of Gunma

Picking up moisture from the Sea of Japan, freezing winds from Siberia dump enormous amounts of snow on Japan's western seaboard and central mountains during winter. An hour and a half from Tokyo via Bullet Train, Gunma-ken is one of Japan's few land-locked prefectures. Comprised of mountain peaks and steep ravines, Gunma has long been hailed for its dramatic landscapes and hot-spring resorts. The mountains load up with snow until spring arrives when the melt-water runs to the rivers. What results is some of the most adrenaline-pumping whitewater rafting in Japan along the Tonegawa River. Bone chilling rapids run from a merry Grade II to tear-jerking Grade V and are highest from May to July. You'll find reputable companies and launching sites in Minakami town. As the water warms during summer, swimming in the canyons between rapids can be a great way to relax and enjoy what's left of Japan's ecosystem.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: April - early September
Difficulty Rating: Moderate to Difficult.

Brent Madison / CPA

Paragliding near Mount Fuji

6. Paragliding over Playland

Flying in the wind with hawks suspended only feet away is an addictive experience! Head up to Asagiri Kogen, part of Tokyo's weekend playground area, to paraglide on the winds blowing inland from the Pacific Ocean. The updrafts can be weak in the mornings but as the tiny plain heats up, breezes hit the steep hills and create lift that can keep you soaring for the rest of the day. DK Skygym's clubhouse environment can be fun to hang out at before or after a flight. While there, enjoy a cup of coffee and practice your technique attached to cables suspended from the ceiling. Get a feel for your wings from the 100-ft practice mound before heading to one of several mountain-climbing pull-carts. You and your pack can be delivered to various launching pad heights. If you don't have your license to fly why should that stop you? In true Japanese style, you can buy the experience by hiring an instructor for a tandem flight. Locked in front of the pilot, a first flight is really worth every yen. On a clear day, the view is unequaled--the Pacific gleams golden to the south while directly in front of you looms a white-capped Mt. Fuji.

Trip Facts:

Difficulty Rating: Easy
When To Go: Year-round, with clearest weather in winter.
Getting there: Bus, hitchhike or drive up Highway 139 in Shizuoka Prefecture

7. "Die" Over Kyoto

Brent Madison / CPA

Traditional Japanese dance, Kyoto.

Once you've tramped the temple circuit in Kyoto, it's time to get above the city to see where you've been. The trail leads to where all eyes in the city go when people want to get their bearings-to the giant Japanese kanji that is etched into the mountainside. Meaning "great" the character is pronounced "die" and shares its name with the mountain, Daimonji-yama. Find your way to the trailhead, a stone torii (shinto gate) behind famed Ginkakuji Temple. The trail winds through the woods above the temple onto a steep dirt path that will take you along switchbacks and steps until you reach the bare spot over the kanji. Pick a clear day to fully enjoy the amazing views of the city and sunset or continue along the ridgeline which eventually leads back down into the city. If you are lucky enough to be there on August 16, you'll catch one of the brightest festivals of Kyoto when the character is piled with wood and set ablaze.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Year round although Cherry Blossom Season in late March/early April is the most colorful time to visit with the Autumn leaves in October a close second.
Difficulty Rating: Moderate

8.The Mecca of Nagano

Snowfall is huge in Nagano as you might expect from the venue of the 1998 Winter Olympics. Comprising of 22 resorts, covering 40 miles of runs and all serviced by 70 lifts, you might actually be discouraged by all the possibilities available on your ticket! Twice the size of Vail, Shiga Koen is Japan's skiing and snowboarding Mecca where everyone from the local butcher to the Tokyo TV star go for a weekend getaway, sporting the newest and latest gear. Some courses feature deep snow runs through pine forests, but for you relaxed-types, there are enjoyable roller coaster-like runs which weave back and forth en route to yet another lift. Have a hot drink or bowl of noodles at one of the many lodges tucked between runs, or retire early and top off your day with a soak in an open-air onsen (hot spring bath) at your hotel.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: November - early March
Difficulty Rating: Moderate to Difficult depending on the runs

9. Visiting the Ghosts of Edo: The Nakasendo Highway

During the Tokugawa Shogunate of the Edo period (1600-1868) the feudal lords were required to "visit" the ruling Shogun in the country's capital, Edo or present day Tokyo. Official highways were constructed for the journeys with the most popular being the Nakasendo, weaving through the center of Honshu's mountains and ominous forests. In modern day Japan, two post towns along this route, Magome and Tsumago, in the beautiful Kiso valley have been preserved in the traditional Edo-style. Tucked into valley nooks, you can hike between the 200-year-old wooden villages along the actual Nakasendo trail of the old samurai and stay in traditional country inns at both ends. Take a day to explore and relax in each town and a half-day to hike with the ghosts of Edo under the quiet pines on their journey to the capital.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Any Season, but take boots for winter and if you want to avoid tourists - avoid July and August.
Difficulty Rating: Easy to Moderate

10. Buzz Tokyo

Join in a rather debauched run through the streets of Tokyo's urban jungle with the Hash House Harriers. Formed by British expats in 1938 in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, this international running club now has 1100 clubs world-wide. The "Hash" is a weekly running game where various members or "harriers" chase one member nominated as the "hare" who marks a crazy trail through the city with chalk or paper. Tokyo's local chapter has been causing a ruckus since the mid-70's. To escape the claustrophobia of Tokyo, this is your chance to see temples, alleys, business districts and back streets all the while guzzling copious amounts of beer and making noise. As a guest runner in the world's most expensive city, the only qualifications to join the Hash antics is to pay up front and try to hold down the lager en route to the next landmark.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Year Round. Check online for specific meeting points and times.
Difficulty: Moderate. Prepare for a headache.

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK

11. Amongst the Ancient Cedars - Hiking & Wildlife in Yakushima

Surrounded by ancient cedars, wrapped in tangibly moist air and catching glimpses of macaques, this may just have you believing you've stepped into some ancient Japanese movie with samurai flying effortlessly across treetops over head. From sub-tropical to sub-alpine, this little southern island dressed in 3000-year-old cedars is one of the nation's best spots for wildlife viewing and hiking. Trails throughout the island are easy to follow, but a bit challenging as they are, more often than not, soaked. Often referred to as the "Alps of the Ocean", Yakushima island has forty peaks at over 1000m and is home to 1300 plant species and 150 bird species. And don't miss out on the epitome of all Japanese experiences, the ubiquitous onsen (hot spring bath). At the end of satisfying yet damp day of hiking, slither into one of the many steaming outdoor baths as your aches and pains float away with the vapor.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: All year round. For those who enjoy colder weather, try December - February.
Difficulty Rating: Moderate

12. Scuba Diving the Wrecks of Ogasawara

Colorful Yuzen Angels, white-tipped sharks, butterfly fish and dolphins inhabit the reefs and wrecks where you have been diving for the past week. You are in the Ogasawara Islands which lay roughly 520 miles from the Japanese mainland. A significant part of 20th Century history lies below the crystalline waters here. Deep diving to WWII Japanese war ships now crumbling on the bottom of the ocean, tells stories now only read about in textbooks. Bombs, bullets and wreckage litters the ocean floor. Explore the ship, Fuju Maru, at 145 feet. While a great dive with certain thrills, the ship is loaded with unexploded ordinance so don't pick up anything that looks dangerous, because--well, it probably is. When not at depth, snorkel the torpedoed ship Hinko Maru in shallow water right off the beach, or keep an eye out for humpback whales which migrate past the islands. A $200 ticket gets you a one-way spot on the Ogasawara Maru from the Takeshiba Pier in Tokyo Harbor to Chichijima's Futami Harbor. The ship makes only one roundtrip passage per week--which is 30+ hours each way--so bring a good book. With only 2000 inhabitants, Chichijima has over 40 inns and hotels. Once you've found a place to stay it's time to hit the water which offers fantastic diving year-round.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Year Round (but check the weather for typhoons from May - December).
Difficulty Rating: Moderate to Difficult - must be an experienced diver.

13. Horseback Riding Amongst the Pines

Rated by the Japanese as one of the top three scenic wonders in Japan, majestic Matsushima Bay is filled with 260 pine-covered islands. The 17th century haiku poet, Basho, wrote of the beauties he encountered here in his masterpiece, "The Narrow Road to Oku," an account of the splendors of Miyagi Prefecture. Naturally, such famous scenery brings in hordes of tourists, but they tend to congregate around the southwestern end of the bay near the Matsushima-Kaigan train station and Matsushima town. To avoid the crowds and keep the scenery relatively unspoiled, get off the train at Nobiru station and stay at Oku-Matsushima or the eastern curve of the bay. Try horses as your mode of transport! A local horse-back riding club runs a riding service amongst the lauded pines along the bay with spectacular views of the historical scenery--also providing the peace and quiet needed to appreciate the haiku master's old haunts.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Year round, although the Autumn leaves in early October are sure to be spectacular.
Difficulty Rating: Easy to Moderate

14. Bike Touring the "White Country" in Summer

From fragrant lavender fields to majestic mountains etched against the bright blue sky, touring Hokkaido by bicycle is the ultimate way to experience Japanese country life. Thirsty for sunlight after six months of snow, summer in the north bursts with color and has an abundance of various natural wonders. Mt. Asahi-dake dominates the island as the "Fuji of the North" while the small roads nestled in the countryside lead from fog-shrouded marshlands to hidden lakes and wild forests. With numerous campsites sprinkled throughout the island, go alone or with a friend for a month of exploring the "White County" by bike. Pack your panniers and start your journey right from the train station or airport heading clockwise up the coast of the island. Plan your route to include some of the best national parks in Japan, like Shiretoko National Park or Japan's biggest, Daisetsuzan. Don't miss the spectacular expansive fields of lavender and poppies near the town of Biei during late June/early July. And some people thought the north was only good for skiing...

Trip Facts:

When To Go: June - September
Difficulty Rating: Moderate to Difficult

15. Escape to the Amami Islands

If camping on a beach with not a hotel in sight is your way to relax, then tent under the stars on the remote islands of Amami. A 10 hour ferry ride or 55 minute flight can get you to Amami Oshima island, the biggest in this southern island chain. Few Japanese tourists bother to go and you are left to swim, snorkel in the glass-like lagoons or bicycle to your favorite sunbathing spot. Comprised of fruit and sugarcane farming communities, the islands are the place to pit-barbeque your latest catch and enjoy drinking from a coconut. Even better, make friends and sample the local food, a unique blend of Ryukyu and mainland Japanese tastes. For a beach without hotels and tourists, head to the southern end of the island where Yadori Beach, a campers' paradise awaits you; the camping area includes washrooms, indoor showers, and sheltered cooking and dining areas. For necessities, a 20-minute drive or hitchhike will take you to the small town of Koniya complete with supermarkets, drugstores and restaurants.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Year Round but April to November is warmest.
Difficulty Rating: Easy to Moderate depending on your recreational choices!

16. Walk Circles on the Shikoku Pilgrimage

A way to see Japan like few foreigners have, is to do something that even the Japanese rarely do themselves --walk the Pilgrimage of the 88 sacred temples of Shikoku --known in Japanese as the Shikoku Hachijuhachi Kasho Meguri. This is, hands-down, Japan's most famous pilgrimage as it retraces the steps of Kobo Daishi, the widely revered saint who founded the Shingon Buddhist sect. Due to sheer distance on foot, most Japanese only dream (or have nightmares) about hiking the Shikoku pilgrimage, a course that will take you in a literal circle around the entire island of Shikoku. Most do it by tour bus, taking a week to be whisked from temple to temple. The island is relatively rural and filled with rugged mountains overlooking thousands of kilometres of coastline. The goal, on paper at least, is to visit each of the 88 shrines reportedly built by Kobo Daishi. Some take the challenge for spiritual reasons, some walk the circuit because it's a great adventure. Whatever your reason, to do it right, you'll have to travel roughly 993 miles in a clock-wise direction starting from Tokushima. The course will lead you through mountain paths, coastal forests and busy city streets and takes about a month and a half to complete. Stay in privately owned minshuku, a rustic kind of bed and breakfast, which are numerous along the route. Your symbol of the challenge will be a wooden walking stick, which from wear will be a good foot shorter by the time you finish. Just make sure you understand it's about the trip not the destination--which is exactly where you started. Now doesn't that make you think?

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Spring (March/April) or Fall (October/November)
Difficulty Rating: Difficult

17. Fly For the Mountain Streams

The sun's rays creep over your tent as you finish your coffee and pack up you gear for another perfect summer day of fly fishing in the remote mountain villages of Japan. What? Remote in JAPAN? Yes! Tiny old-fashioned communities still exist along the loneliest of roads throughout the country's central mountain ranges, often nicknamed the "Japanese Alps." Maze Village is one such location in southern Gifu prefecture and the idyllic spot for finding amago, iwana and the home-town favorite, ayu or "sweet fish". The village is tucked into mountains along the Maze River and prefectural route 257 right in the middle of nowhere, so rent a car and pick up an English map! Camp along the river, visit the village historical museum, and ask directions the local hot spring baths after a long day of throwing line. Surrounded by 3000-foot mountains, the Maze River flows down from Mt. Ryugamine. A myriad of hidden pools swirl through the river lined with a freestone bed and varied waters making it a fly fisher's peaceful haven.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: March through September
Difficulty Rating: Easy to Moderate
What to Bring: Your own light tackle - 7' to 8' rods for 2 to 4 weight lines, and a short rod to bypass riverside brush.

18. Tropical Challenge: Mountain Bike Okinawa

Sling yourself atop a mountain bike in Okinawa when you've had your fill of ocean activities. A giant greenhouse, the island has animal and plant-life that will keep you as interested in your passing environment as the trail itself. You may find yourself streaking through sugarcane one moment and ducking jungle vines the next. If you fancy yourself an advanced single-track cyclist, ask a shop to point you to the Spider Loop about 4.5 miles north of U.S. Kadena Air Base on route 58 for a technical, exciting ride. Considered one of the best rides by local gearheads, the loop consists of several short trails, each with a distinct personality. If you've tried the Spider and want more, go for La Luge Bypass which parallels route 58. Prepare yourself for a challenging downhill with jungle, slick roots and dangerous drop-offs. Quick turns and certain spills keep the locals coming back. And regardless of where you decide to spin your wheels, the ocean is always nearby for a victory plunge.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Year-round but be prepared to wait out a typhoon during May through December.
Difficulty Rating: Moderate to Difficult

19. Sea Kayak the Noto Peninsula

Visit hot springs, small bays and charming villages from the sea by kayak. Paddle the coast around this bent-finger of land jutting from Ishikawa Prefecture for a view of Japanese rural life like no other. Framed by a dramatic and rugged western coastline, you will be dwarfed by the sea and the towering mountains which fill the peninsula. Noto's tightly curved east coast is calm and protected but more touristy. Whereas the northern and western coast is weather-beaten and wild from years of mixing with the Sea of Japan. Anyone serious about an adventure should bring their own gear and kayak all 360 miles of coast, on both equally beautiful yet distinct sides. Put your boats together and start your trip in the small town of Himi on the peninsula's eastern base. You'll be able to poke along in gentle seas while you head north, exploring inlets, picturesque lighthouses and even the famous Senmaida, one-thousand rice fields vista along the way. Along your trip, slip into the morning markets for breakfast, stay at youth hostels or Japanese minshuku at night, buy handicrafts made locally and feast daily on freshly caught seafood. If this is not enough, remember Honshu, too, is an island...

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Summer (June - August) - Must provide your own sea kayak.
Difficulty Rating: Difficult/Strenuous

10. Go Climb a Mountain

The summer climbing season for Japan's Northern Alps is relatively short, so time your plan for this trip carefully. Take a three-day trek starting from the Kamikochi area and hike along the spectacular ridges of the steep massifs making up the Kita Alps, comprised of mountains with names like Hotaka-dake and Yariga-take. No doubt you will make friends with like-minded Japanese climbers as you stay together in snug, well-stocked mountain lodges overnight and share some of the most spectacular views in Japan. After all, you are in the "Roof of Japan" and scenery from the mountain peaks of luscious green valleys and sharply cut brown-blue mountains don't get any better than this. From the plateaus and valley floors, the place literally bubbles with natural hot springs, so be sure to pack a swimsuit for outdoor public spots. When you descend, spend a day exchanging climbing tales at base camp in Kamikochi and a day castle-climbing in nearby Matsumoto City.

Trip Facts:

When To Go: Late June through Early August
Difficulty Rating: Moderate but Strenuous

An extended version of this article appears in the GORP [Great Outdoors Recreational Program] website at: gorp.com.

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