The Black Dragon of the Golden Triangle

I am in no way interested in immortality, but only in the taste of tea.

Lu Yu, (d. 804), Chinese scholar and hermit

One of the many attractions of Northern Thailand is its cultural diversity. In addition to the "mainstream" Lanna, or Northern Thai culture, one finds a panoply of smaller ethnic groups, all with unique traditions, language, cuisine and attire. The most well known minorities in the region are the colourful mountain dwellers, such as the Akha, the Hmong and the Lisu. Less known are the Yunnanese Chinese, who have been travelling from the South-western Chinese province of Yunnan into Burma and Thailand for centuries, leading mule and pony caravans over the treacherous mountains, carrying silk, tea, precious stones, and yes, the ubiquitous opium.

Among the more recent Yunnanese Chinese arrivals came in 1961 as refugees from communism. After fighting a futile rear guard action from Burma since 1949, they moved on to Thailand. As soldiers of the defeated Chiang Kai-shek's Kuomintang, fleeing their homeland into Burma and Thailand was preferable to "liberation" at the hands of Mao's Red Army. Here they settled into two major mountain strongholds, the largest being Doi Mae Salong in Chiang Rai province. In Doi Mae Salong, this "Lost Army" adapted well. They planted fruit trees, such as pear and plum, which flourish in the temperate mountain climate, not unlike their native Yunnan. They also planted tea. Later, with assistance from Taiwanese experts, they continually upgraded their tea gardens with high-quality hybrids that are used to produce what many connoisseurs consider the ultimate in Chinese tea, oolong tea. Oolong means "black dragon" in Chinese. It has a subtle floral aroma, a complex taste, and an agreeable after taste.

Peter Holmshaw / CPA

Tea garden at Doi Mae Salong.

Even for the visitor with only a passing interest in tea, a trip to Doi Mae Salong can provide a fascinating glimpse of traditional Chinese culture--in Thailand! Located 240 kilometres north of Chiang Mai, Mae Salong can be reached either via Fang or Chiang Rai. An ideal itinerary from Chiang Mai would be to travel North via Fang and return via Chiang Rai, to avoid retracing one's steps. Mae Salong is located on a mountain peak, with spectacular views over the orchards and tea gardens in all directions. Caravans of pack animals still travel into Burma from here; the frontier is a few kilometres to the West, but clearly off limits to visitors. Tour agencies offer horseback trips in secure areas.

A serpentine main road winds through Mae Salong, quite precipitous at times. The Chinese character scrolls around the doorways of the Yunnanese style homes, old men with wispy beards smoking tobacco in immense water pipes and the crisp climate can transport the visitor to a different world. Adding to the uniqueness of the setting, Akha ladies, with their distinctive silver head-dresses and copious jewellery pass through the town on the way to and from their own nearby village. Located up the hill from the mosque (a substantial minority of the local population are Chinese Muslims) lies the granite tomb of General Tuan Shi-wen, who led the KMT 5th army here in 1961. Behind his final resting-place sway pine trees, below spread rows of well cultivated tea shrubs.

Indeed tea plays a major and visible role in the local economy. In addition to the gardens themselves, the visitor will likely detect the pleasant scent of tea processing, which is done in small barns along the main road of town. Even more evident are the numerous shops where hopeful young Chinese sales girls offer free tea tasting, and of course, tea for sale. In addition to the teas, the shops offer a wide variety of the equipment and utensils used in the preparation of tea in the traditional Chinese manner. Of particular interest are the small, unglazed stoneware teapots and the delicately painted small porcelain cups with which they are used. Most of these products come from Taiwan, but prices (after the obligatory bargaining) are little more than one would pay in Taiwan. The best way to become introduced to the pleasure of this ancient aspect of Chinese culture is to sit down at the counter of an inviting tea shop and let these able sales girls spin their web. Watch carefully how they prepare the tea so you can duplicate the process at home.

Possibly a brief background will help the visitor appreciate the experience more fully, and aid in any eventual purchases:

Tea

Mae Salong prides itself on the cultivation of several hybrid species of Camellia sinensis, the species of tea plant grown in China. These hybrids were developed in Taiwan especially to produce fine quality oolong tea. Oolong refers to a processing technique wherein the tea leaves are only slightly oxidised, placing it between green tea that is not oxidised, and black tea, which is fully oxidised. The creation of a fine oolong tea, however, requires much more than a simple modification of the drying process. The shrubs require intensive cultivation, and the harvest, which occurs about every eight weeks, depending on the season and the weather, must all be done by hand. Only the whole fresh top leaves are collected. The steaming or "withering" the leaves, allowing them to oxidise slightly, rolling them into small balls, and finally drying them completely, is more art than science, and must be overseen by an experienced artisan. Teas of this quality fetch hundreds of dollars per kilo in Taiwan and the west, making the teas of Doi Mae Salong, while not cheap, extremely good value.

Peter Holmshaw / CPA

Tea factory in Doi Mae Salong.

The best oolong teas available in Mae Salong are known as Number 12 and Number 17, which refer to the hybrid species imported from Taiwan. Number 17, which is also known as gan awn, meaning soft stem in Thai, is considered preferable by connoisseurs, and has a price to match. Other than Oolongs, several interesting teas are available, including green and a local speciality called cha naam peung (honey tea), which has an interesting fruit like taste. Not all of the tea in Doi Mae Salong is of high quality; by no means should you purchase the teas sold in clear plastic bags at the frenetic market frequented by package tours. Reliable suppliers include the teashop at Mae Salong Villas (also offering excellent accommodations and food) at the lower end of the town, the nearby Wang Pu Tan teahouse, and the 101 tea factory, where one can view processing in season.

Teapots and Utensils

Central to the tea equipage is, logically, the teapot itself. Rather than using a glazed porcelain pot, the Chinese favour unglazed stoneware, usually of a natural reddish brown colour. These vessels come originally from the town of Yixing (pronounced ee-SHING) in Jiangsu province near Shanghai. This area is famed for its zisha or purple sand clays, and is truly the home of the teapot: the first teapots were crafted in this region during the Ming Dynasty (1368 1644 AD). These clays have several practical advantages over porcelain. Kilned at lower temperatures, they retain their shape during the firing process, thus allowing a more precise fit between the pot and its lid, keeping the tea warmer and more fragrant. Over time, the porous clay absorbs the tea's essence and produces a more flavourful brew as it becomes seasoned. Yixing teapots are quite small by Western standards, usually holding 100-300 ml. This allows the tea to be transferred to the cups of the drinkers at the correct moment, rather than brewing for an extended period and becoming bitter. Oolong tea leaves can be infused at least twice.

Yixingware is not only practical, but aesthetically pleasing as well. The pots possess a rustic elegance in both material and shape, with forms taken from nature or simple geometry. The smooth yet unglazed clay develops a warm patina with use. Top grade pieces are signed with the "chop" of the artisan, and fetch high prices. During the Maoist era, the quality of Yixingware declined in China, but is now experiencing a renaissance. Similar work from Taiwan is of high quality. In fact most of the top quality teapots in Mae Salong are from Taiwan.

Remember that a Chinese pot for oolong tea is much smaller than the western version, because the leaves are infused more than once. A pot suitable for serving two people would be about 200 ml. in volume. Before buying a pot, check to see how it pours, using cold water. It should pour freely and not dribble. The lid should fit snugly to the pot; in fact if one covers the small ventilation hole in the lid and inverses the pot as though to pour, no liquid should emerge until the small hole is uncovered. Possibly all this is a bit much for the amateur tea drinker, but it can convince sellers that you know something and aid the negotiations, or at least make the experience more fun.

Peter Holmshaw / CPA

Tea leaves.

Since oolong tea is famed for its delicate fragrance, special cups are used to best appreciate it. They are sold in sets of two small porcelain cups, one tall and narrow, one hemispherical. The host pours tea into the tall cup, and the guest transfers it into the rounded one. Before drinking the tea, the guest inhales the tea aroma from the now empty tall cup, then drinks the tea from the rounded one. By this time the astute host will have filled the tall cups of his guests a second time.

Other equipment useful in preparing oolong tea includes a glass or ceramic decanter with a filter. Once the tea has brewed for the correct amount of time (2 minutes in a 200 ml. pot using 5 grams of tea) it should be transferred it to the decanter to prevent over brewing, and to assure that all guests get a uniform taste. A measuring scoop is useful, as is an appropriate container for storing the tea leaves, which should be protected from both light and air.

Recent research in both Japan and Europe has confirmed the health value of the polyphenols in tea. They serve as a cellular anti oxidant and reduce cholesterol. These chemical compounds are dissipated during the oxidation step of tea processing. There are therefore most present in green tea, largely so in Oolong, and mainly lacking in black teas. All teas contain caffeine, which in moderation is harmless. The caffeine lift of tea is noticeably more gradual than the jolt of a cup of strong coffee, and seems to provide a longer but lighter and more agreeable stimulation.

Drinking oolong tea can therefore be an interesting window into a great cultural tradition, a stimulating gustatory experience, and even good for our health.

Enjoy!

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