The Old City Bastions

Part of Ancient Chiang Mai

The sleepy moats, timeworn bastions and restored gates that encompass Chiang Mai Old City are dominant features of this ancient city. Evocative of a troubled past, symbolic of cultural continuity and northern Thai pride, the inner city fortifications have come to epitomise Chiang Mai.

Since its establishment by King Mangrai, Chiang Mai has endured a long history of investment, conquest and counter-conquest at the hands of its neighbours. Formerly renowned as the capital of the Lan Na Kingdom, Chiang Mai since the late 19th century has been the unofficial capital of the north and Thailand's second city.

As early as 1296, in recognition of the city's strategic significance, King Mangrai laid the foundations of the first city wall - according to the annals at today's northeastern bastion, close to Wat Sri Phum. Tradition further recounts that Chiang Mai's illustrious founder went on to complete the fortification of the northern capital. By the time of his death, he had established Chiang Mai as the major city of Lan Na, a rich trading centre where merchants and farmers alike could take shelter behind a series of battlements and narrow gates which were kept securely closed from sunset to sunrise.

It seems clear that, over the centuries, the centre of gravity of Chiang Mai has shifted eastwards, following the changing course of the Ping River. Certainly by the beginning of the last century the main marketing and business centres lay outside the Old City walls, in the area between Thapae Gate and the river's west bank, whilst the fortified Old City was already more administrative than commercial in character.

Nowadays this arrangement remains very much in evidence, with the main shopping areas, major hotels and Night Bazaar all clustered to the east of the Old City along Thapae and Changklan Roads. If you are seeking a bargain, be it a fake antique Sawankhalok bowl, an embroidered hill tribe jacket or a bolt of pure Thai silk, this is the place to be. But when you've had enough of the hurly-burly of commerce, when the mind turns to history, culture and relative tranquillity, then head for the Old City battlements - due west to Thapae Gate.

Today the walls and moats of Chiang Mai, albeit much changed since the time of King Mangrai, still serve to demarcate the boundaries of the Old City, an almost square area measuring approximately 1.5 kilometres on each of its four sides. Although the greater part of the ramparts were demolished during the mid - 20th century, and the rubble used for road building, the four corner bastions still stand firm, dating in their present form from the restorations carried out by Chao Kavila at the end of the 18th century.

David Henley / CPA

Chiang Mai: Jaeng Hua Rin by torch light.

By their very nature, bastions - in marked contrast to gates - are quiet places where little happens (except, one may reasonably suppose, in times of battle). Such is certainly the case in Chiang Mai, though each bastion, known in Northern Thai as jaeng or 'corner', has its own particular character. One rewarding way of visiting them all is to walk around the city walls. The overall distance is just over six kilometres, and though much of the way is shaded by moat-side trees, except in the cool season it is probably better to go by bicycle, samlor or tuk-tuk.

Jaeng Katam

Starting from Thapae Gate and turning south, the first bastion reached is Jaeng Katam, or 'Fish Trap Corner', where local people used to catch fish in a large pond which has long since disappeared. Today Katam Corner is a quiet place, though the bastion itself looks spectacular enough when Chiang Mai municipality turns on the fountains and illuminating lights.

Jaeng Katam influences the city's strength and fortifications. It is associated cosmologically with Wat Chai Si Mongkhol.

Jaeng Ku Ruang

Proceeding due west, past Chiang Mai and Suan Prung gates, the next bastion reached, at the Old City's southwest corner, is Jaeng Ku Ruang. The origins of this name are obscure, though Chiang Mai city council has erected a sign that explains that 'the name means a stupa-like structure containing the ashes of a person called Ruang'. It seems very probable that this may derive from the period 1321-25, when Prince Khrua, a difficult son of King Mangrai, was held prisoner at this point under the guard of a person called Ruang. This southwestern bastion is today in excellent condition, with well-preserved battlements offering clear views of Doi Suthep. The surrounding area, too, is pleasant, with children often to be seen swimming in the moats, a local park, and, at certain times of the year, a series of stalls offering seasonal fruits for sale.

Jaeng Ku Ruang influences the city's misfortune. It is associated cosmologically with Wat Rampoeng.

Jaeng Hua Rin

A further 1.5 kilometres due north, passing Suan Dok Gate en route, is Jaeng Hua Rin, the city's northwestern corner. This bastion, which faces Huai Kaeo Road and once again offers fine views of Doi Suthep, is also well preserved. The battlements on top are high enough to protect a small, circular redoubt, and the whole area is made more attractive by stands of red irises and tall palm trees lining the moat banks. It is here that fresh water enters the moat - formerly at this point the waters of Huai Kaeo, the 'Crystal Brook', were channelled along an aqueduct over the moat to supply the Old City - and from this derives the name Hua Rin, or 'Head of the Watercourse'.

Jaeng Hua Rin influences the city's longevity. It is associated cosmologically with Wat Chet Yot.

David Henley / CPA

Chiang mai: Jaeng Sri Phum reflected in moat.

Jaeng Sri Phum

The fourth and last of the Old City bastions, Jaeng Sri Phum or 'Light of the Land Corner', is situated at the Old City's northeastern extremity, about 750 metres due north of Thapae Gate. According to legend, this bastion marks the first point of the original city fortifications founded by King Mangrai more than 700 years ago. Formerly, not far from here, stood a giant Banyan tree, held to be highly auspicious and regarded as a source of Chiang Mai's power, prosperity and security. Today, sadly, the Banyan tree is no more, though the shrine of San Lak Muang Jaeng Sri Phum stands close by the bastion, and regularly receives offerings and reverence from the townspeople.

Jaeng Sri Phum influences the city's glory and honour. It is associated cosmologically with Wat Chai Sru Phum.

Of the four bastions, Jaeng Sri Phum is in some ways the most attractive. This does not reflect on its state of preservation - indeed, it is clearly the most timeworn of the Old City corners. Yet it is from this obvious age that Sri Phum derives its special charm and venerability. The ancient bastion is not so much broken down as melted down. Subsidence beneath the surrounding moat has caused the heavy fortifications to settle unevenly over the centuries, so that the rose-coloured brickwork appears warped and strangely surreal - an attractive effect made still more pleasing when observed reflected in the placid waters of the surrounding moat.

Jaeng Thiphanet

Chiang Mai also has a fifth bastion, Jaeng Thiphanet, set in the south-western corner of the city's outer 'Earthen Ramparts' or kamphaeng din. The least-known, least visited and indeed-least-visible of Chiang Mai's brick-ramparts, it is described separately in Ancient Chiang Mai (15): Kamphaeng Din: The City's 'Earthen Ramparts'

Text by Andrew Forbes, images by David Henley. © CPA Media, 2006