Ancient Chiang Mai: Schomburgk's Account of 'The Lao' in 1859-60

Sir Robert Schomburgk, the British Consul to Siam who visited Chiang Mai (which he styles 'Xiengmai') in 1859-60, left a somewhat convoluted account both of the city and of its people, who he styles 'Lao' following the convention of the time, though by this he means very specifically the Khon Muang. Of Chiang Mai and its people he writes:

We found a large number of people assembled between the bridge and the city gate to witness our arrival; some were standing; others, sitting in groups or pressing near us. They were a medley crowd. The true Lao in turbaned kerchief, with his tartan-like Khatung, worn as the Scotch wear their plaid; the Thai or Siamese merely girdled round the loins; the fat smiling Chinese in his blue vestments; and to make the medley still more conspicuous, there were likewise inhabitants from Muang Teli [Dali] in the Chinese Province of Yunnan, a caravan of which had arrived a day or two previous: all these people added to the peculiarity of the scene before us.

Fatigued, I slept soundly, but what a stir there was on awakening, from the early morning hours, in front of our residence. The bridge is the great public thorough-fare for the population residing on the left bank of the Méping, not only in the suburb, but likewise for those in the adjacent country. A number of these persons come daily to town, to sell or purchase: the women entered in parties, consisting of twenty or thirty; seldom accompanied by men, passing in single file towards the city gate. The Lao females, have long glossy hair of an intense black, which, with tidy persons, is neatly plaited and gathered in a knot behind, the hair of the forehead being drawn up backwards in the manner of the Chinese women.

They wear the Lao petticoat, more or less ornamented with gold thread, and embroidered with silk of bright colours. The married women are moreover dressed in a jacket or spenser, closely fitting as far as the waist, and from thence expanding more amply until it reaches nearly to the knee... Those who can afford it, have rich necklaces, and rings in their ears and on their fingers; their arms and ankles surrounded by circlets of gold or silver; a silk shawl or scarf of red or rose colour is thrown loosely over their shoulders. The latter refers to the married women - young ladies, unmarried, do not dress above their waist.

Black and shining as their hair is, the racemes of the white flowered Moringa [ton marum] or the fragrant Vateria [a yang or dipterocarpus], or if such be not in blossom, those of any other tree or plant similar in colour, set it off much more by the great contrast, when these flowers are placed in their raven tresses. The mouth of the young girls is formed exquisitely. But few of the Lao women indulge in betel chewing, hence they do not render that organ, so fairly formed by nature, hideous by the prevailing custom of the Thai; and their teeth remain white as nature made them. Though much fairer in colour, in stature they, like the Indians of Guiana, very seldom reach a height above 4 feet 10 inches.

The men generally wear the Khatung or Lao plaid, but a number are dressed in blue or white tunics, fitting closely and reaching like the spenser of the women to the knee. The hair of the head is allowed to grow; only when it becomes too long, it is cut; some have whiskers, a custom not adopted by the Thai, where nature has yielded him hairs on his cheeks. I observed but few instances of the tuft of hair on the crown, as worn by the Siamese proper.

They dress their children very neatly; on the head they place a cap consisting of seven pieces, in the shape of a cardinal's cap, made of scarlet cloth with a band of black velvet below, embroidered with gold thread. Boys of six years and upwards, are dressed in the close fitting tunic, and, according to the wealth and standing of the parents, they are made of velvet, or white cotton cloth...

The stalls in the bazaar are tenanted by women, who, when their attention is not claimed by purchasers, occupy themselves with making those pretty embellishments or embroideries worked with gold thread and all kinds of coloured silks, which adorn the Lao ladies' petticoats. Others were occupied in embroidering upon black velvet, ornamental designs according to their conception, for the covering of head cushions, and here and there the mother would have her... youngest to nurse, notwithstanding that her fingers were busily employed in embroidering. The silk for the manufacture of petticoats, &c., is imported from the Chinese territories.

The Laos consist, it may be said, of two clans, namely such as who, if men, paint their bodies from the waist to the knee, and designate themselves as the Thong dam or 'black bellies' and the others who do not paint, as Thong khao or 'white bellies'. I saw more of the former than of the latter in and about Xiengmai. The tattooing represents figures of dragons, tigers, labyrinths, &c. The operation of producing these figures is upon the same principle as our sailors employ, to have anchors, crosses and other figures printed upon their arms...

The customs of the Lao people resemble in general those of the Siamese. Marriage contracts are made verbally, the parents of the girl receiving a compensation from the future husband, for the loss which they suffer by having no further assistance from their daughter in their daily labour. The amount of that compensation depends upon the bride's beauty, youth and family connections. It seems the minimum is 40 Rupees (£4).

They practise cremation for such as die a natural death - that is, if the relations can pay the expense connected with it - but the remains of such as lose life by accident, as by drowning, by a fall, or being killed by an animal, cannot be burned but must be interred.

The smoking of cigars is very common amongst the women - they sometimes use pipes which are made of the rhizoma or rootstock of the bamboo, nicely carved. Little girls, no more than 6 or 7 years of age imitate their elders. It is quite amusing to see with what gravity these children enjoy their weed. On the other hand, I have not seen that the Lao females use the betel-nut to the same extent as the Siamese: hence, as I have already observed, they do not show those distorted mouths which disfigure the sex in Bangkok, and render their teeth black and corroded.

Shomburgk's Deer

Cervus schomburgki, named after Sir Robert Schomburgk and endemic to only Thailand, were once very common in the lush swamps along the Chao Phraya River and on several of the great swampy, grassy plains around Chiang Rai and Sukothai. However, due to the increased cultivation of rice, human encroachment and hunting it is believed that the species is now extinct. The shoulder height was about 1m with a dark shiny brown body and short tail with a light ventral surface. Congregating in small herds in the mating season, at other times the bucks tended to stay on their own. The buck had an antler that was quite distinctive, with a very short beam and 10-33 tines arranged in a basket like fashion.