CPA Media

Anyone spending time in Thailand has likely seen the intricate black-ink tattoos adorning a kickboxer's chest at Ratchadamnoen Stadium or the exposed shoulder of a woman riding by on a motorbike. These fine-lined designs belong to sak yan—sacred tattoos rooted in the spiritual traditions of the Tai peoples who migrated from southern China and northern Vietnam into present-day Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia.

Far more than decorative, sak yan tattoos serve magico-religious purposes. Each design is imbued with specific powers—whether for protection, charisma, success, or health—and gains potency from the tattoo master (khru sak) and the wearer's morality and discipline.

Getting inked by a Thai ajahn (master) offers a rare window into a rich spiritual tradition—and a lifelong souvenir. Here are three respected practitioners in and around Bangkok where you can experience authentic sak yan.

Ajahn Neng at Anantara Siam Bangkok Hotel

Ajahn Neng Onnut trained under the legendary Ajahn Thong, one of the most powerful sak yan masters of the 20th century. His celebrity clientele includes Ed Sheeran, Brooke Shields, and Steven Seagal. While his main studio is in Onnut, Ajahn Neng now accepts appointments at the Anantara Siam Hotel.

A session begins with offerings at the hotel's spirit shrine, followed by a consultation in a specially consecrated suite. Based on life goals and personal needs, Ajahn Neng recommends suitable yantra designs. He then inks the tattoo using a mai sak, a long shaft tipped with a single-use, sterilized needle. Afterward, he blesses the tattoo in a short ceremony. Clients receive a video of the entire ritual.

“We follow the same rituals and procedures in the hotel as at my samnak,” says Ajahn Neng. “It's good to see foreigners appreciating Thai culture and understanding sak yan as part of it.”

www.anantara.com/en/siam-bangkok/experiences/memorable-tattoos-by-a-master

Wat Bang Phra

Located along the Nakhon Chaisi River in Nakhon Pathom, this late-18th-century temple became famous under the late Luang Pho Poen, a revered monk-tattooist. After training under Luang Pu Him Inthasoto, Poen became a forest monk and developed a reputation in the 1950s for tattoos said to protect villagers from tiger attacks.

Though Luang Pho Poen has passed on, the temple still hosts five resident monks and several lay masters offering sak yan daily. The temple's annual wai khru festival draws over a thousand disciples returning to renew the power of their tattoos and receive new ones.

Ajahn Nuad, a skilled lay master, works weekends at the temple. “We don't sell sak yan,” he says. “We accept donations—all of which go to the monastery.”

First-time visitors must receive the nine-spired kao yot design on their upper back, a foundational tattoo believed to offer broad protection. Wat Bang Phra is particularly famous for its tiger tattoos, and on weekends, wait times often exceed two hours.

Wat Bang Phra, Nakhon Chai Si District, Nakhon Pathom
Tel 034-389-333

Ajahn Ya, Khlong Toey

In Bangkok's Khlong Toey district—often misrepresented as the city's largest slum—Ajahn Ya runs a humble yet welcoming samnak (studio). Trained by his grandfather from the age of 15, Ajahn Ya is now in his 40s and uses sak yan to support and guide his struggling community, especially youth.

Despite the gritty surroundings, Khlong Toey is safe to visit and full of character. Ajahn Ya's studio is tucked down a narrow alley just south of the old cargo rail line connecting Makkasan and the port.

“I don't expect people to follow endless rules,” he says. “It's enough that they try to do good, avoid evil, respect their families, and help others.”

While he offers many yantras, Ajahn Ya is best known for his centipede design, praised for boosting leadership, resilience, and prosperity. The centipede, complete with detailed legs and protective sigils, is one of the more unique and empowering tattoos in the tradition.

Ajahn Ya
37 Soi Kheha Phatthana, Khlong Toey, Bangkok 10110
Tel 080-925-8441

The Sak Yan Experience

Sak yan tattoos are never placed below the waist. Common placements include the back, chest, arms, and neck. Guests sit on floor cushions while the master hand-tattoos using a mai sak, dipping the needle into ink like an old-style writing quill. Fresh needles and ink are used for each session to ensure hygiene.

After the design is completed, a short consecration ceremony empowers the tattoo, sealing its spiritual benefits.

Each design serves a purpose—whether for safety, charm, strength, or good fortune—and the deeper power of sak yan lies not just in the ink, but in the wearer's intention to live a life aligned with the values behind the tattoo.

Story by Joe Cummings; Photo by Joe Cummings